從某種程度上來說，批評家的工作是簡單的。我們不用冒什麽風險，帶著高高在上的優越感來對他人的工作和名譽評頭論足。我們從那種東西寫起來好寫而讀起來也很有趣的否定批評中贏得自己的名譽。然而我們評論家們所需要面對的殘酷的事實是即使是壹道最普通的菜肴或許都比我們那壹紙空談要有意義得多。
而壹個批評家真正冒險的時刻是他發現並決定保護壹個新秀的時候。因為這個世界總是對於壹個年輕的天才，壹項新穎的創造或者壹個需要被鼓勵的新需求充滿著敵意。
昨天晚上，我從壹個出乎我意料的廚師那裏嘗到了壹道新的超乎尋常的美味。這道美味和制作它的廚師都戰勝了在這之前我對美食那極端膚淺的看法。他們顛覆了我對美食的認知。
過去，我曾對古斯特的名句“任何人都能烹飪”毫不加掩飾的施以輕蔑和嘲諷。但是直到如今，我才真正明白他這句話真正的含義：並不是所有從事某壹行的人的人都能最終成為偉大的藝術家，但是壹個偉大的藝術家卻能夠來自於從事與這壹行業的任何地方。很難想象現在在古斯特飯店裏掌勺的可以說是巴黎最好的大廚竟然有著那麽卑微的身世。
我還將重返古斯特飯店，帶著更多的期待和壹副饑腸。
這是英文原版~~
In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer up their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the bitter truth we critics must face is that in the grand scheme of things, the average piece of junk is probably more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something and that is in the discovery and defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. The new needs friends. Last night, I experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement.
They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto, "Anyone can cook." But I realize only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau's, who is, in this critic's opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France. I will be returning to Gusteau's soon, hungry for more. It was a great night. The happiest of my life.